Elbrus second time - west and east summit

My friend wanted to go to Elbrus and I joined him because I really like the hike. At first time, I climbed the mountain without a guide – we did everything by ourselves and had wonderful experiences. Now I didnt want to risk it so I participated in the guided tour in PIK tourist club. Even I climbed the mountain previously, however, it’s always changing. We spent several days at Adyr-Su gorge, which is very beautiful, first and then moved to Elbrus. After the aclimatization hike in Adyr-Su i felt so good and ready to another challenge so our guide offered an option to go to Eastern Peak of 5621m, if we feel fine.

Day 1 - Adyr-Su gorge

Distance: 10 kmAltitude: 1700 m→2300 m

Before entering the gorge there was interesting place. There is special car lift. Cars go on a platform and this lift takes them up. Looks little bit crazy first time. After this we continued deeper into Adyr-Su. When we arrived we started hiking inside the valley.Good part was that we didn’t need carry heavy backpacks. They went by truck. Around was green forest, cold river and big snowy mountain. It was lovely and calm feeling. At 2300m we made base camp near Ullu-Tau. This will be our home for next 2 nights.

Car lift

Day 2 - first acclimatization

Distance: 10 km

Elevation: 2300m → 3200m → 2300m

This day was first acclimatization hike. Not very long distance but going up was a bit hard. One important thing in mountains: not to hurry, need walk slowly and save energy, many people go fast first hours and after they suffer.We reached the destination , which was small lake. Views were amazing. Caucasus mountains everywhere. We ate lunch, made photos and went back to camp.

Day 3 - sleeping higher

Distance: 7 km + 3 km

Elevation: 2300m → 3200m → 3400m → 3200m

We packed everything and moved higher. We went to Kichkidar camp at 3200m. Road was beautiful. Big stones, mountains and no people. We made tents there and stayed for night. Near camp we saw mountain goats. They just walked around and looked for food.They are fun to watch. I ve made many photos of them.

Mountain goats

After lunch we went to a lake around 3400m. Some people even swim there.Water was really cold. I decided mountains are enough adventure for the day :) At evening we watched sunset.

Day 4 - last hike in Adyr-Su

Elevation: 3200m → 3500m → 3200m

This day we had one more acclimatization hike. Around 3 hours there and back. We went higher to around 3500 meters. The landscape changed again. Less green, more rocks, snow and glaciers. Around us were huge mountains covered by clouds. This place looked already more serious. Like real high mountains. We spent some time there, made photos and enjoyed the view. After this we returned back to camp. It was our last night in Adyr-Su.

Day 5 - back to civilization

Distance: 16 km

Elevation: 3200m → 2100m

Morning we packed our tents and stuff. The acclimatization part in Adyr-Su is over. We walked down from mountains.

After few days living in tent it was strange to come back: cars, shops, internet, normal life :)

We moved to Terskol village, But there was small surprise: all hotels were booked. So our “civilization” was not really civilization. We stayed in tents again, but this time not high in mountains. Our camp was in forest near Terskol.Actually it was not bad. After few days you get used to tent life. In evening we checked equipment and prepared for Elbrus.

We needed:

• crampons
• ice axe
• harness
• warm clothes

First part of adventure was finished. Now real Elbrus climb begins.

Day 6 - Elbrus shelter

Elevation: 2100m → 3850m → 4100m → 3900m

Morning started early. We packed our things and went to Azau. From Azau we used cable car to Garabashi station at 3850m. This time no more forest and green mountains, only snow. Heavy backpacks and food went by snowcat to our shelter. Our home was small container house at around 3900m. "Elbrus shelter". View from this place was amazing. You open door and see Elbrus directly in front of you.

After lunch and some rest we made small acclimatization hike to around 4100m. Then back to shelter. Now we needed to get used to sleeping high. Tomorrow we go even higher.

Day 7 - Pastukhov rocks

Distance: 6 km

Elevation: 3900m → 4700m → 3900m

On day 7 the acclimatization hike on Elbrus was planed. Our target was Pastukhov rocks: 4700 meters. It is already serious altitude. Every step is starting to become slower. Air feels different. We walked with crampons and tested our equipment. Weather was perfect: Blue sky and White snow. And huge 2 summits of Elbrus above us. At 4700m we rested, made photos and enjoyed the view. My friend Dima even flew his drone. After that we went back down to shelter.

Acclimatization hike

Day 8 - rest before summit

That was an easy day. I spend all day in camp resting and watching mountains. For lunch i went to restaraunt to order some proper restaraunt cook dinner.

Day 9 - summit day

Elevation: 3900m → 5100m → 5642m → 5621m → 3900m

Alarm. Middle of night. Cold. This is always worst moment :) We prepared equipment and went to snowcat. Snowcat took us to around 5100m. Snowcat on Elbrus: some people say using snowcat is cheating. Maybe :)

But this time I had an excuse to get a snowcat : I wanted to climb both summits in one day. West and east.

After snowcat real walking started. We met other part of our group who climb there without snowcat. They look much more tired. It was still dark. Only lights from headlamps and many small steps.

Step. Breath. Step. Breath.

On 5000+ meters nobody runs. You just continue. Slowly sun started to appear. This was probably best part. Caucasus mountains everywhere below us. Sunrise Elbrus.

After few hours we finally reached west summit. 5642 meters. Highest point of Europe.

Second time for me. Weather was just unbelievable: No wind, Blue sky. I was not in hurry to go down. I walked around, made photos and enjoyed the view. On summit I met another group of tourists. Funny thing — they also liked hockey. Of course we needed to make photo :)

I reached summit earlier than some people from our group. So I stayed there and waited. Usually you don't want spend too much time above 5600m, but weather was perfect. No wind and sun. Waiting on Elbrus summit was not bad problem to have :) After around 40 minutes all our group finally arrived. Everybody was tired but happy. We made group photo together. Now Elbrus west summit was officially completed for everyone. But my day was not finished. Most people started descent. We(half of a group) still had one more plan. East summit.

West summit

Going to east summit

Next target: East summit 5621m.

From west summit it looks not very far. But after many hours walking and altitude above 5000m distance works different. Everything feels longer. At first I still felt very good. But closer to east summit my legs started to feel tired. But step by step we moved forward. And finally reached east summit. 5621 meters. Now I completed both Elbrus summits.

West + East.

East summit

Going down

After east summit we still needed to return. Many people forget that summit is only half way. You also need energy to go back. Descent was long. Snow became softer. Legs wanted rest, so i got a snowcat to go down too. I definetily needed some rest. The climb was finished. We had a night to sleep and take cable car back.

Final thoughts

My second Elbrus climb was completely different from first one. First time was more like adventure into unknown. We planned everything ourself, checked routes, looked at weather, organized transport and made all decisions. It was more difficult but also very interesting experience. Second time with group was different. I didn't need to think about every small detail. Guides made plan, checked weather and helped with organization. I could just enjoy mountains more. Before this trip I thought that climbing same mountain second time maybe will be not so interesting. I was wrong. Elbrus was same mountain, but adventure was completely different.

New route.

New people.

New memories.

Adyr-Su gorge surprised me a lot. Before this trip I only knew Elbrus side, but there are so many beautiful places around. Green valleys, rivers, glaciers, wild animals and nights in tent between mountains.

Now I can say I visited both Elbrus summits.

West 5642m.

East 5621m.

Same mountain gave me two completely different stories. First climb was about reaching the top. Second climb was more about enjoying the way. Maybe this is why I like mountains. You can visit same place again, but you never get same adventure.

Will I climb Elbrus third time?

Never say never :)